Thursday 3 April 2014

PIMP YOUR PATTERN: SPANDEX SKATER SKIRT

Want to use your spandex fabric and techniques from the Leggings pattern to make a funky skater skirt?

Want a super quick sew with no hemming?

Then you are in the right place! 

My lovely assistant will be helping today! 


Approximate requirements for spandex and pattern cutting table. 

Why can't I just use the elastic waist measurements from the pattern?  
Good question, I am pleased you asked! 
Technically you can, in fact you can do whatever you want to do!  The reason I have a separate measurement table is because spandex stretches and woven fabric does not.  With woven fabrics (like cotton), the waist opening needs to be bigger to allow for the skirt to pass over the hips, with spandex, you make the waist opening smaller than waist size since it stretches.  Using the measurement table from the blog will ensure you get a nice smooth waist to your skirt which is more flattering to most shapes and it will save you some fabric too! 

STEP 1
Use measurements from the Skater Skirt pattern to determine what size you need to make (or mixed measurements).

STEP 2
Use the pattern cutting table above to mark the appropriate line on the pattern piece for waist and length.

STEP 3
Cut skirt out of fabric using the elastic waist skirt layout (2 pieces on fold with seam allowances)


STEP 4
Change overlocker settings for knit sewing (or stretch stitch on sewing machine).

Increase left needle tension, decrease looper tension if using woolly nylon on the loopers (2 dials on right).

I have marked my overlocker so I remember the settings for next time I sew spandex!


Decrease stitch length and increase differential dial.


S
STEP 5 
Place skirt right sides together and align at hemline.  Use the leg flip technique from the DYO Leggings (Pins) pattern to sew the skirt side seams on both sides.



STEP 6
Create elastic waistband and attach using measurements & instructions from Skater Skirt pattern.



 And done!!


Here are some I prepared earlier.




This is how it will look if you use the measurement table from the blog, notice the waistband is not really gathered?


This is how it will look if you choose to use the elastic waist measurements from the Skater Skirt pattern, gathered at the waistband.

If you are in Australia or New Zealand, I have some very cool fabrics and elastic in my store to help you get your knit on!  Visit the shop here.